The fans have been waiting ! Yamariki (Honkan) was re-opened in December 2009, the old wooden structure replaced by a ferro-concrete building with a retro-design storefront. The expectations were high, so let's see what Yamariki can deliver.
On a February Saturday, 30min before opening time, about 40 people where queuing up in front of Yamariki, so the popularity of the place hasn't changed. A little later a Yamariki staff appeared, walking along the queue, noting down the size of each group, and upon opening (10 min. early, 16:50 !), each person or group was then classified at the entrance door and sent to one of the three floors depending on - well, I don't know.
I came to sit at the counter on the 1st floor, directly in front of the 30 year-old charcoal-grill they rescued from the former building. The grill is operated by owner-chef Yamada-san, apparently he changed his place of work from the Shinkan to the Honkan. I don’t want to be nit-picking, but for the interior design Mr. Yamada must have hired somebody who usually designs Denny’s or Jonathan’s family-restaurants, that is to say someone with not much clue of matching colors, materials, lighting, and what makes a place feel cozy and comfortable. The open kitchen in glass and steel is similar to that of the Shinkan, the problem with the air-offtake in the kitchen is also the same, so put on your long johns and bring a blanket if you don't like your legs to get frozen. The order-processing at Yamariki now got high-tech and utilizes this fancy electronic notepads for the waiters and wireless ticket printers in the kitchen, sigh !
I am however happy to report that the quality of food and drinks did not change. Everything is on a high level. The food menu with the frenchish touch appears to be be almost identical with the Shinkan-menu. 煮込み (nikomi / beef stew) (580 Yen), ミル貝とホタテの湯ぶりサラダ (geoduck and scallop salad) (800 Yen), 青ナマコ (aonamako / blue sea cucumber) (750 Yen), 薫製盛り合わせ (kunsei moriawase / assorted smoked food) (600 Yen), everything very satisfactory.
Yamariki now has a glass-walled wine-cellar in the basement, displaying a very nice collection of mostly french wines. The wine is served in Riedel glasses and generously poured. "Wrong glass, sir !" (The Blues Brothers), refer to my comment at the Shinkan-review. The sake selection is above standard.
The main counter at the 2nd floor is non-smoking, but with just 5 seats available and smoking-seats nearby I don't let this pass as a "non-smoking section", so no extra point here. What a pity, why don’t they make one of the three floors completely non-smoking ? Toilets are unisex, western style, very clean.
Located 1 min. walk from subway Shinjuku-line and Ōedo-line Morishita station, exit A4. B1 floor, floor seating with sunken area below the tables, 1st floor, counter (8 seats) and two tables, 2nd floor, main (5 seats) and side counters (5 seats) plus 3 tables, total capacity of about 75 persons. Reservation for groups is possible for the B1 floor and if you can come before 6p.m.
Interested to know how I got introduced to Yamariki a few years ago ? Article by Chieko Asazuma, published in the Japanese magazine 経済界 (Keizaikai) Yamariki.pdf
Beer (633ml bottle): 620 Yen
