Every Izakaya-lover knows Yamariki. The popular place has been featured a thousand times in books, TV and the internet.

Founded in 1925, Yamariki has two locations in the downtown area of Morishita, the 本館 (honkan / main building) and the 新館 (shinkan / annex). The honkan, where the guests once started queuing up an hour before opening time, is currently under construction and will be re-opened in December 2009.

So I visited the shinkan, located a few meters away around the corner. I found myself  a seat at the first floor counter, facing the open kitchen, where master and 3 more chefs are preparing the food. Yamariki’s menu is abundant, offering everything you would expect in an izakaya, but adds some french tastes and twists to it which are quite unique and not to be found elsewhere. Mr. Yamada, third-generation master, has reputedly been working at french restaurants before, so thats why. First to mention is the 煮込み (nikomi / beef stew) (580 Yen), which is simmering behind the counter, taste is delicious. Yamariki prepares it with port-wine, red miso and uses a bouquet garni for flavoring, wow! Then Yamariki is offering many pork dishes, like 焼きトン (yakiton / skewered pork intestines), (2 for 300 Yen) taste is good but nothing special. がつ刺し (gatsu-sashi / pork stomach sashimi) (500 Yen), topped with sesame seed, is exquisite. There is sashimi, salads and also some frenchish food, like the homemade chicken liver terrine (800 Yen), or 薫製盛り合わせ (kunsei moriawase / assorted smoked food) (800 Yen), all very recommendable.

Something also quite unique for an Izakaya is the drink menu, it offers not only a superb selection of sake and shochu but also wine, with a better assortment than some Tokyo wine-bars. Worth to mention that the wine is poured generously and served in Riedel glasses ! (Allow me to give a piece of polite advice to the friendly and attentive service staff: the glass you use for the reds is actually a Riedel white-wine glass, the one for the red housewine from the barrel is a Riedel water-glass, just check out The Riedel Wine & Glass Guide for instructions on correct use).

So everything is very fine with food and drinks.

Coziness is however not the stronghold of Yamariki. To begin with the fairfaced concrete, steel and glass interior, which makes the atmosphere a little chilly, then there is a problem with the air-offtake in the kitchen: the ventilator that activates every few minutes produces a strong and cold airflow which is freezing legs and feet of the guests at the counter. Also quite disturbing: the interphone mounted on the kitchen wall which is used for the communication with the upper floors at a volume level one could only call annoying. So I left Yamariki with mixed feelings. But I will come again in December to check out the new Honkan.

Located 2 min. walk from subway Shinjuku-line and Ōedo-line Morishita station. 1st floor counter (12 seats), 2nd floor tables (32 seats), 3rd floor floor seating (29 seats)

Beer (633ml bottle): 620 Yen